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淘旅食

替自己做一場淨化與療癒 享受玉山登頂的意猶未盡

▲玉山主峰標高3,952公尺 (圖|朱研燕)
▲尼泊爾籟簫又名玉山籟簫,屬於菊科,外層密佈長綿毛,花期落在七月至十月,多生長於3,200公尺以上高山群峰及岩原。| Anaphalis Nepalensis , also known as the Yushan pearly everlasting, belongs to the Asteraceae family, is densely covered with long trichomes (or “plant hair”), and blooms from July to October. This flower’s ideal habitat are peaks and rock plains over 3,200 meters high.(Courtesy of Chu, yen-yen)

位於8.5公里處的排雲山莊海拔標高3,402公尺,提供水源、廁所、廚房等設施。

Located at an altitude of 3,402 meters above sea level at 8.5 kilometers, Paiyun Lodge provides water, bathrooms, and kitchen facilities.

▲排雲山莊 | Paiyun Lodge (Courtesy of Chu Yen-yen)

山莊供餐以及睡袋租賃委外經營,如果不想自己煮飯,可以事先訂購排雲山莊伙食,也可以租賃睡袋,減少背包重量,如此的服務與設備,簡直是登山界的五星級住宿。

The restaurant and the sleeping bag rental are run by separate companies.

If you don’t want to cook your own meals, you can order meals offered by Paiyun Lodge in advance, and it’s also possible to rent sleeping bags to reduce the weight of the backpack. Such services and equipment are basically five-star accommodation in the mountaineering world.

排雲山莊緊鄰玉山主峰、西峰登山口,受玉山群峰圍繞,朝向南方視野遼闊的溪谷,成為觀賞雲海絕佳之地。秋冬下午五點左右,正是觀賞雲海的最佳時機。

Built adjacent to Yushan’s main peak and Xifeng peak, the lodge is surrounded by all these mountaintops, facing the valley with a wide view of the south. This position makes it an excellent place to view both the vast ocean and clouds above, which are best enjoyed at around 5 p.m. during autumn and winter.

▲排雲山莊觀賞日落雲海 | Paiyun Lodge under sunset-bathed clouds. (Courtesy of Chu Yen-yen)

隔天清晨三點,是攻頂玉山的團隊準備整裝出發最佳時間,離開排雲山莊後的路段就是一路之字型的陡坡,加上高山反應讓很多登山者會有缺氧喘不過氣的狀況。

The following morning at 3:00 am is the best time for the Yushan hikers to start making their way to the mountain.

The road after leaving Paiyun Lodge is a zigzag-shaped steep slope whose high altitude makes many climbers breathless, while the road’s loose gravel increases a sense of unease, although some sections of the road have iron chains to support it.

摸黑走碎石坡更增不安感,部分路段有鐵鍊可以扶著,頂著不到5度的低溫,盯著頭燈照亮的路,好像永無止盡。好不容易抵達小風口,強勁的風令人站都站不穩。

With a low morning temperature of fewer than 5 degrees, the road seems endless as the shuttle’s headlights illuminate the path ahead, and it’s not easy reaching Xiaofengkou (小風口) as strong winds make standing upright difficult.

距離玉山主峰僅剩200公尺,最後之字坡陡峭山壁有如登天般困難,抓緊旁邊的鐵鍊,小心翼翼地往上攀爬,終於完成2.3公里的最終試煉。若是清晨出發,幸運的話清晨時抵達峰頂欣賞日出雲海,絕對是難以忘懷的感動時刻。

Only 200 meters away from Yushan’s main peak and the final trek of this zigzagging slope is so steep, it seems like a stairway to the sky, so grasp onto the iron chain beside you and climb carefully until you’ve finally completed the final 2.3-kilometer trial.

If you’re lucky and depart early enough in the morning, you will arrive at the peak in time to enjoy the sunrise bathing the sea and clouds – an undeniably unforgettable sight to behold.

▲玉山主峰標高3,952公尺 | The elevation of Yushan’s main peak is 3,952 meters high. (Courtesy of Chu Yen-yen)

 

原文自 《The China Post